Introduction — Oils Aren’t the Enemy, Imbalance Is

Oils themselves are not the cause of acne or clogged pores; the real issue is not choosing the right oil for the right skin type. All oils are occlusive to some degree, meaning they form a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss. While this barrier supports hydration, it can also trap sebum, bacteria, and debris – but only if an incompatible oil is used on acne-prone or congested skin. The choice of facial oil, therefore, becomes critical.

The Ayurvedic Perspective on Skincare

Ayurvedic skincare is primarily centred around Dosha-based skin physiology, with the three Doshas governing an individual’s skin structure, oil production, and sensitivity.

Those with strong Vata Dosha (symbolic of Air and Earth) tend to have dry, thin, tight skin with fine lines and a rough texture. Such skin is easily affected by cold and dryness.
Oils recommended for Vata: Sesame oil, olive oil

Pitta, which is symbolic of Fire and Water, manifests in oily, sensitive, acne-prone skin with redness and inflammation, which is sharply impacted by heat and sun exposure.
Oils recommended for Pitta: Coconut oil, sunflower oil

People with strong Kapha, symbolic of Earth and Water, tend to have thick, oily skin with large pores, blackheads, and dullness, particularly in humid climates.
Oils recommended for Kapha: Jojoba oil, light sesame oil (sparingly)

Understanding your Dosha inclinations (which may vary according to age, climate, and other factors) is essential before selecting any facial oil.

In Ayurveda, facial oils function as Twachya - rejuvenating agents that nourish deeper skin layers. Properly absorbed oils are known to improve skin barrier function, enhance cellular repair, reduce inflammation, and
balance sebum production.

Clogged pores leading to the trapping of dirt and bacteria, triggering breakouts, happen only when:
• Heavy oils are used on Kapha skin, warming oils on Pitta skin, or in hot and humid climates
• Oils are over-layered or used in excessive quantity or frequency
• Skin is unclean or inflamed
• Internal ama (toxins) and inflammation are ignored
• Hormonal imbalance is present

What causes acne according to Ayurveda: In Ayurveda, acne is known as Yuvanapidika or Tarunyapidika, arising from hormonal changes, diet, lifestyle errors, and Doshic imbalance.

Key contributors:
• Pitta and Kapha aggravation
• Rakta Dhatu involvement (impurity in the blood)
• Ama (toxin) accumulation from poor digestion
• Stress, high-glycemic foods, dairy, and gut imbalance

Ayurveda treats acne through internal purification, diet correction, lifestyle alignment, and appropriate external oils.

Modern Skincare vs Ayurvedic Skin Science: An Overview

The Ayurvedic approach to skincare: In Ayurveda’s holistic approach, skin breakouts are a result of a host of reasons: Dosha (inherent bio-energies within us) imbalance, improper usage, seasonal weather fluctuations, and internal health, not just because of the facial oil used. In fact, from the Ayurvedic perspective, when oils are chosen correctly and applied mindfully, they support skin balance rather than disrupt it.

Unlike many modern skincare approaches, Ayurvedic skincare is rooted in natural ingredients and focuses on restoring balance through herbal beauty remedies and Dosha alignment. It emphasises long-term skin health through individualised routines rather than quick cosmetic fixes.

The pillars of Ayurvedic skin care are the following:
• Use of natural ingredients and a skin care routine: Ingredients include turmeric, sandalwood, neem, aloe vera, and saffron; the routine is built around oils, masks, and treatments aligned to Dosha inclinations.
• A holistic skin care approach that balances Vata, Pitta, and Kapha Doshas.
• Herbal beauty remedies that may take time and help build long-term skin resilience.

The modern approach to skincare is based on scientific research and innovation. It combines natural extracts with lab-formulated actives to target specific concerns – and quickly.

Modern skin care usually involves:
• Use of peptides, acids, retinoids, and stabilisers.
• Focus on rapid results for acne, pigmentation, and ageing.
• Offers targeted solutions but generally overlooks individual constitution.

Ayurvedic Classification of Facial Oils

Ayurvedic facial oils are evaluated based on how they interact with the skin’s deeper tissues and Doshic balance, not just surface lubrication. This multidimensional approach ensures oils are chosen to restore balance, not merely moisturise. Four key therapeutic dimensions help guide personalised oil selection based on skin type, season, and imbalance.

Guna (Qualities): The inherent texture, nature, and behaviour of the oil on the skin.
Virya (Potency): This implies the heating or cooling quality of the oil.
Karma (Action): The specific therapeutic role the oil plays in addressing skin concerns.

The main characteristics of Ayurvedic facial oils are the following:

• Snigdha (Unctuous): These oils provide lubrication, softness, and deep nourishment. They are ideal for dryness, roughness, and loss of elasticity. However, excessive use can aggravate Kapha, leading to heaviness and congestion.

• Teekshna (Penetrating): These oils penetrate deep into the skin’s micro-channels, helping clear blockages, improve circulation, and enhance absorption of herbal actives. They are particularly beneficial for Kapha-related skin concerns when used judiciously.

• Ushna (Warming): Warm oils stimulate circulation and metabolic activity within the skin. They help with dullness and sluggish Kapha conditions, but excessive use may aggravate Pitta, especially in hot climates or for sensitive skin.

• Sheeta (Cooling): These oils calm inflammation, redness, burning sensations, and irritation. They are especially suitable for Pitta-dominant skin types, including acne, rosacea, pigmentation, and sensitivity.

Facial Oil Selection: The Ayurvedic Approach

Ayurvedic oil selection is always individualised and must be  guided by the following parameters:

Skin type
Vata skin types need snigdha, mildly ushna oils.
Pitta skin does best with sheeta, anti-inflammatory oils.
Kapha needs light, teekshna oils used sparingly

Season
Warm oils suit winter; cool oils suit summer and humidity.

Current imbalance
Acne, inflammation, dryness, or sensitivity require different oil strategies.

Ayurvedic Oils Don’t Clog Pores, Wrong Choices Do!

What Makes an Oil Comedogenic or Non-Comedogenic?

An oil’s tendency to clog pores (comedogenic quality) depends primarily on its fatty acid profile, absorption rate, and stability.

Fatty acid profile: Oils high in oleic acid or saturated fats (lauric, palmitic, stearic) are thicker and more pore-clogging.

Slow absorption: Heavy oils sit on the skin, trapping dirt and bacteria (occlusion.

Oxidation: Oils exposed to air, heat, or light tend to degrade and clog pores more readily.

Most facial oils come with a rating. Check the Comedogenic Scale ratings below: 

*0 – Won’t clog pores
*1 – Very low likelihood
*2 – Moderately low likelihood
*3 – Moderate likelihood
*4 – Fairly high likelihood
*5 – High likelihood

Non-comedogenic oils typically have a rating of 2 or below and are richer in linoleic acid.

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FAQs

1. What are the best Ayurvedic facial oils?
Kumkumadi Oil, Nalpamaradi Oil, Jojoba Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Sunflower Oil - these oils are light, better absorbed, and suitable for balanced or acne-prone skin when used correctly.

2. How to use Ayurvedic facial oils?
Do a test first: Cleanse skin gently with an herbal face wash and apply about 1-2 drops. If there is no reaction in 24 hours, you may go ahead and use the oil regularly.
Right usage: For daytime use, apply lightly; avoid direct sun or rinse after 1 hour. For the night, you may apply and leave on or wash off after 30–40 minutes if skin is acne-prone. 
Avoid oils if suffering from active pus-filled or cystic acne.

3. Do Ayurvedic facial oils clog pores, lead to acne?
No, the oil per se does not clog pores or trigger acne:
 – if the choice of oil is correct (aligned with Dosha, skin type/condition/season)
- Usage and application frequency, quantity is optimum